THE WEIGH-IN

by Rushin Bill

The first event of significance after arriving at the designated place for a dog match and after having carefully chosen a referee is getting the dogs on the scales and seeing where both dogs are at in relation to the contracted weight. The weigh-in. Many probably think of this as just a trivial formality in the matching of dogs. It isn't. What happens in this five minute period of time can be crucial to your dog's chances of winning this day and surviving to win another day and perhaps making a career in the brood pen as well.

When I first arrived in Oklahoma in the mid seventies and became interested in the dog game one of the first matters of importance I was introduced to was that of making weight…and making damn sure the other guy did too! I was often told that no less an imposing figure in the dog game than Earl Tudor himself would kick your ass for giving up a pound of weight in a dog match! That is how important the relative weights of the dogs in a match were considered to be by very experienced and cagey dog men.

Nowadays we often hear of dog men giving up two, three or even five pounds and still winning dog matches. This may well be true but that doesn't mean it is a good idea. For one thing, how much faster might their lighter dog have won had the weights been equal? And how much less damage might he have sustained? Did he break a tooth at the thirty minute mark? If he had been on a similar dog the same weight he might have won in twenty and still have all his ivory.

It is also a fact that you may not hear about all the dogs that were matched "uphill" or "pushing weight" against a bigger dog, that lose. Why would you? The winner doesn't want to admit he won over a smaller dog, thereby diminishing his victory and the loser doesn't want to admit he lost because of his stupidity or ineptitude by matching into a larger dog, right? So unless you talk to someone who was there at the weigh-in you may never hear about a smaller dog that lost, although the owner will be quick to brag about a smaller one that wins. Why? The answer is simple really, a bigger dog is stronger and strength is very important if all other factors are equal…and if they aren't it becomes even more so.

The relative weights of the dogs in a match are so important that I have known camps of dog men that would rig their scales so that they could bring their dog in heavy, get the other man's forfeit and also try and get a betting advantage (odds). How do you keep this form of cheating off of you and your dog? That's is what this article is all about.

First, you MUST have your own quality scale. It doesn’t have to cost two hundred dollars or be some fancy electronic deal, just a decent spring scale will work. However, a scale of any kind is practically worthless without some way to check it's accuracy. How do you do that? Simple. With what is called a "test pea". These can be obtained from companies who make and sell scales. They aren't cheap but they are well worth the price when they can potentially save your forfeit and even your dog's life every time you use them. You can either buy a single pea of say forty or fifty pounds or a set of them in several increments that will add up to almost any exact weight you may be contracted for. The latter may be added up so that the scale can be set exactly to the contract weight rather than ten or fifteen pounds different as may be the case with a single pea in some instances. (NOTE: weight-lifting weights WILL NOT work! They are only approximate in weight and not nearly accurate enough to zero a scale!)

I have seen many cases where a young dog man only purchased a scale and "forgot" the test pea, apparently thinking it unimportant or too large and impractical an expenditure. Then he showed up at the match and missed weight because his scale hadn't been "zeroed" properly. Zeroing is simple.

Take the scale just like it comes from the factory and hang your test pea(s) on it. If you have a fifty pound pea the scale should say EXACTLY fifty pounds. If it doesn't use the adjustment screw on the scale to set it at exactly the weight of the pea. (It isn't a good idea to "zero out" the weight of a harness or belt that is used in weighing as the other party may not like the scale being that much off "zero" when nothing is hanging on it, resulting in endless arguments at the weigh-in.

I have found that one of the best things to use for weighing your dog is a woman's nylon scarf or kerchief as it weighs almost nothing but is plenty strong enough to support any dog. (They are cheap so I would advise buying your own rather than using the wife's favorite!) So, set your scale at exactly the weight of your pea and check it at least once a week during your keep. Spring scales change slightly with the weather (temperature) so that will have to be taken into account. They shouldn't vary by more that 1/4 pound though and if it varies by more than that and particularly if it seems to be "sticking" at any certain weight it should be checked out thoroughly and lubricated or fixed if it is damaged. NEVER leave your scale out in the rain as it may rust, which will prevent it's proper operation. Also, do not leave your test pea hanging from the scale 24/7 as eventually it may stretch the spring and cause improper operation of the scale.

When you have a dog matched it is imperative that you bring both your scale and your test pea(s) with you to the match! Why, some will say, they'll have a scale already at the show, right? Right, but will their scale be set right? And will your dog make weight on it? Or will you have to pay the forfeit and lay some odds because their scale says your dog is over the weight, even though he was right on weight when you left the house? Or will you have to go into a bigger dog and not collect any forfeit because their scales say your dog is under the weight but theirs is right on? Either way is bad for your chances of coming out ahead from an economic standpoint and bad for your dog's chances if he is pushing weight. So do yourself a favor. Buy a good scale and test pea(s) and always take them to the match with you. This will keep the other side honest and give you and your dog a better chance of success.

And remember this, their are no "official scales" designated in the rulebook (have one of these too and take it with you!) so if you are told you have to weigh-in on someone else's scales say, "No, I don't!" and check the "official scales" with your test pea to make sure they are accurate and set properly. If they aren't, refuse to weigh on them, show the referee why you are refusing and offer to use your own scales which are accurate and properly set up. (DO NOT GO AHEAD AND WEIGH-IN ON SCALES THAT ARE SUSPECT as your opponent will be screaming for the forfeit if you don't make weight on those scales!) Remember, you DO NOT have to weigh on someone else's scales just because your opponent got there first or says his scale is better than yours!

Unfortunately there are always some in the game who will use all sorts of underhanded tactics to try and gain an advantage, particularly if they know they are matching into an inexperienced opponent. Here is another "trick" to watch out for.

Let's say you get to "the place" and the "official scale" is pointed out to you hanging from a tree a few yards from the box. It is night time and only dimly lit in that area. Your opponent offers to weigh his dog first and goes to get him. He hangs him on the scale and the dog seems to be under or right on the weight. You must insist that EVERYONE back away from the scale while you and the referee check the weight! Why?

Two reasons. One is that I have seen scales rigged so that if someone pushes on the scale to "steady it from bouncing" it will go a half pound in one direction (lighter) and if they pull on the scale it will read the other way (heavier) a half pound or so! Obviously it would be hard to get a fair shake in a deal like this. NO ONE should be touching the scale for any reason while the weight of the dogs is being ascertained!

Another little trick I have seen is simple but quite effective. If his dog is heavy the owner (or possibly even the referee, if you are foolish enough to let your opponent's partner or buddy act in that capacity) will step back at first but then edge a little closer as if to stop the dog from thrashing around on the scale. While everyone's eyes are diverted to the needle on the scale he will carefully come up under one of his dog's back feet and let the dog balance on his knee. Or he might slip his hand under the dog's butt or pull up on the skin on the dog's back. This can easily gain his dog a pound or three.

Try it at home and you'll see how easy it is. The result of all these methods is the same. His dog will appear lighter than yours perhaps saving him a forfeit or costing you one if the scale is set improperly. And, of course, setting your dog up to be pushing weight.

So…let's say you have gotten an honest weigh-in and the other dog is heavy; what do you do? The decision is completely yours. For one thing, it depends upon whether you think your dog can handle the disparity in weight. A half pound may be okay but I would advise against pushing a pound or more.

You have a couple of options if the other dog is heavy. You can collect the man's forfeit and go home if you want. This will teach him and anyone else present that you aren't a dumb-ass and you expect the other side to make an honest effort to get their dog in on weight. Or you can take his forfeit and proceed with the match, insisting that your opponent lay you some odds to make amends for pushing the extra weight.

The only problem with this is that odds won't help your dog against a larger opponent. It will also teach your opponent that he can come in heavy, pay the price and use a larger dog on you because you are stupid. Remember, some people have a lot of money and getting in the win column is more important to them than coming out ahead, financially. I have seen men who made a career of this and made their inferior dogs champions by using this method. A dog that is 2 or 3 pounds heavy has a tremendous advantage and will win most of the time, even over better dogs if they are smaller.

One of the things I was taught is "to keep the cheat off of you, you have to know how the cheat is put on to you!" It is in that spirit I am passing along these little tricks of the trade. I would sincerely hope that none of our readers would use them to gain unfair advantage for their dogs but rather only to assure themselves of getting an even chance at winning their matches.

Next time we will address another "trivial formality", the washing of dogs before a contest.

Knowing what is happening in the washtub and paying careful attention to details could easily mean the difference between winning, losing or even losing your dog due to foul methods that could easily be avoided if you know what is going on.